MultiBall - Sensor calibration

Improve detection accuracy



Do not calibrate without cleaning your sensors first!

The initial step is to ensure that all sensors are thoroughly cleaned and inspected, including the removal of sensor covers to confirm that there are no obstructions. This is the primary precautionary measure to be taken. Do not proceed with sensor calibration unless they have been cleaned properly; they must be in excellent condition before calibration.

If, despite these preparations, a stable condition cannot be achieved, it may be necessary to consider recalibrating the sensors. This might be necessary when relocating the MultiBall to a new position and definitely is during its initial installation.

Step 1 | Open the console

What you need

  • A ladder (not a straight one, it should stand by itself to keep the detection area of the wall unobstructed)
  • A TX30 Torx screwdriver (for the console cover)


  • Remove the six screws (M6, TX30 Torx) of the console.
  • Pull at the lower end of the cover to detach it from the rest of the frame. The upper end is secured by a tab. Now, lift the cover upward to remove it.

Step 2 | Calibrate the sensors

What you need​

  • A small flat screwdriver (for the DIP switches)

On the right-hand side, you will find either two or four of the following devices (the controllers), depending on the version of your system.

Controller components and naming convention

In the following re-calibration process, we will refer to some components of the controller, we marked them in the picture above.

  1. A group of four little switches on the right-hand side, if one of those switches, like the one with the number 3, is aligned to the left, then that switch is ON, and vice versa right means OFF. We will refer to those switches as e.g. [DIP | 3] switches in the following.
  2. On the top left you will find some LEDs in a horizontal row with labels like OUT1, we will refer to those as e.g. [Top LED | OUT1]
  3. In the left middle, there are some more status LEDs in a vertical line. We will refer to these LEDs as e.g. [Middle LED | B], they are named the following

  4. Lastly, underneath each controller, you will find a rather big switch with which you can turn the whole controller on and off (the actual switch is not shown in the picture). We will refer to it as [Switch].

Recalibration Process

To re-calibrate your system, do the following

  1. Power off all controllers (big [Switch] underneath each controller).
  2. Make sure nothing is touching the wall (e.g. a ladder, cables, other peoples, balls.. )
  3. For each of the two or four controllers repeat:
    1. Switch [DIP | 3] to the left to turn it on.
    2. Power on the controller with the [Switch] underneath.
    3. Switch off [DIP | 3] (to the right) and wait until the green [Top LED | OUT4/IN2] comes up. If this light never went off, please wait 5 seconds.
    4. The calibration for this controller is finished already. Now, check the result
      1. The [Middle LED | B] should blink in steady intervals (two times a second) to show that the unit is alive and working (refer to the image below).
      2. The [Middle LED | C] to [Middle LED | F] indicate the signal strength:
        • The signal is strong enough if at least one of the LEDs [Middle LED | C] to [Middle LED | E] is lit.
        • The signal is too weak if only [Middle LED | F] is lit or none at all.
      3. Test the sensor by touching the wall and moving the hand a bit left/right and up/down. It should act like the following:
        • The green [Top LED | OUT1] blinks as you touch the wall (if not, try a different section of the screen.
        • The [Middle LED | C] to [Middle LED | F] drop low or go off completely, which is normal in this case).
    5. Power off this controller which the [Switch]
  4. Turn on all controllers


In cases where one of the red lights (as shown in the following diagram) is on, it is probable that either one of the light bars or the controller is faulty.

You will find additional information here.

How to find out what exactly is broken?

If one controller is fine and the other has the red lights, the easiest test to narrow down is to swap the light bars.

  • Always power off controllers during changing cabling
  • Connect the light bars from the left controller to the right one and vice versa.
  • Redo the calibration (as described above).
  • If the error stays with the light bars that is where the problem lays, if it stays with the controller this one is bad.

If you need to trace down further on the light bars, only connect one pair each time and redo the calibration

Probably one pair will work and another won't. You can then change the sender or receiver from the faulty pair to find out which side of the faulty pair is not working.

Once you have defined the faulty element, replace it or contact the LYMB.iO support for replacement parts.